DX Coil Replacement for Harsh, High-Humidity Mushroom Farm Environments

Kennett Square, PA is widely known as the mushroom capital of the world. It is also located just a short drive from Capital Coil & Air’s sales office in West Chester, PA. Because of that proximity, we regularly receive requests from local mushroom farms to visit their facilities and measure failing DX coils for replacement.

Mushroom farms require precise climate control. Proper ventilation is critical because high CO₂ levels can negatively affect mushroom quality and growth. Humidity must also be carefully controlled. Mushrooms thrive in high-humidity environments, but too much moisture can lead to mold, bacteria, and serious crop losses.

That makes reliable HVAC equipment essential.

The Problem

One local mushroom farm had been dealing with multiple failing DX coils. Instead of replacing them, they had tried several temporary “band-aid” repairs. None of those repairs solved the issue.

As the coils continued to fail, the systems had to work harder to maintain the required growing conditions. That caused energy costs to rise while performance continued to decline.

A neighboring farm, which had already used Capital Coil & Air for several DX coil replacements, recommended that they call us to inspect the equipment.

What We Found

After inspecting several units, we found that the finned area on many of the coils had been severely damaged by corrosive elements in the air. The aluminum fins had deteriorated far faster than expected, which significantly reduced coil performance.

The original equipment had not included added coil protection, which made the coils vulnerable in such a harsh environment.

Because the new DX coils had to fit into the existing units, exact measurements were critical. We also recommended that any replacement coils include added protection, such as:

  • Epoxy coating
  • Stainless-steel casingDX Coil
  • Copper fins
  • Other corrosion-resistant construction options

Without added protection, the farm would likely continue facing the same failures.

The Solution

The farm decided to start with one replacement DX coil as a test. Capital Coil & Air measured the original coil, built an exact replacement, and supplied the new DX coil with an epoxy coating for added corrosion protection.

The coil arrived a few weeks later and matched the original unit perfectly.

One year later, the replacement coil was still operating at full capacity with no visible damage to the finned area.

The Result

Because Capital Coil & Air was able to respond quickly, identify the true cause of failure, and recommend a longer-lasting replacement solution, the farm moved forward with ordering the remaining batch of DX coils.

That successful project also led to additional referrals throughout the local mushroom farming community. Today, Capital Coil & Air is a trusted HVAC coil replacement supplier for many of the largest mushroom farms in the United States.

When corrosive environments destroy OEM coils too quickly, Capital Coil & Air can build exact-fit replacement coils with the right materials, coatings, and construction options to extend coil life and protect critical HVAC systems.

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Condenser Coil Failing? Here’s Why

Did you turn on your DX system only to find the condenser coil isn’t working? It may seem like a simple fix—but it often isn’t. If you can provide the unit’s model number, there’s a good chance we’ve already built a replacement. If not, you typically face two choices: wait months and pay a huge premium through the OEM, or call Capital Coil for a faster, engineered solution tailored to your system.

Condenser Coils

Condenser coils rarely freeze, so the first step is identifying the cause of failure—corrosion, age, or vibration.Condenser Coil

Old age is the easiest to address. With a few basic dimensions—coil size, number of rows, and fins per inch—we can quickly quote a duplicate. Since condenser coils are usually outdoors, they’re easy to measure and photograph. Images of headers and return bends also help us understand circuiting and sub-cooling requirements.

Corrosion often points to poor original design. Coastal or high-salt environments can degrade aluminum fins within a year or two. To prevent this, you can upgrade to copper fins with stainless steel casings for maximum durability, or opt for protective coatings—a more cost-effective solution that typically adds just 1–2 weeks to lead time.

Vibration is another common issue, especially when coils are near moving equipment. Leaks near the tube sheet—often appearing as if the tube is being sliced—are a key indicator. Proper isolation is critical, and in some cases, oversizing tube sheet holes can help reduce stress, though not all manufacturers offer this option.

Maintenance is equally important. Because condenser coils are exposed to outdoor air, they accumulate debris quickly. With tight fin spacing (12–20 fins per inch), coils can act like filters, reducing efficiency when clogged. Regular cleaning is essential, and many customers now request thicker fins to better withstand high-pressure washing and harsh cleaning agents.

When choosing an HVAC coil manufacturer, work with a partner who guides you through the engineering process. Capital Coil & Air brings over a decade of experience, ensuring a smooth process from quote to installation. Call and speak with a coil specialist today!

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Why Are HVAC Coils Made with Copper Tubes and Aluminum Fins?

HVAC Coils

It’s no coincidence that HVAC coils predominantly use copper tubes and aluminum fins. Copper is known to have exceptional heat transfer properties, while aluminum, although effective, does not match copper’s performance. When it comes to HVAC coils, the primary goal is either cooling or heating, which means heat transfer is a top priority. Right behind that? Cost. While copper is ideal for tubes due to its efficiency, using it for fins would be economically feasible only under specific circumstances. Consequently, the majority of HVAC coils are designed with copper tubes and aluminum fins, which provide an optimal balance of effective heat transfer and cost efficiency.

Fins play a crucial role in heat transfer, accounting for approximately 65% to 70% of the total heat exchange in any coil. The tubes contribute about 30% to 35%. To achieve optimal performance, it is essential to have a strong fin-tube bond. In HVAC terminology, fins are referred to as the “secondary surface,” while tubes are the “primary surface.” Interestingly, the secondary surface—aided by the expansive fin design—carries out twice the amount of heat transfer compared to the primary surface.

In the manufacturing process, the tubes are expanded into the fins, making the fins the secondary element. Given the fin density—typically at 8 to 10 fins per inch—here is significantly more surface area from the fins than from the tubes. This further highlights the importance of a robust fin-tube bond, as it is essential for the fins to perform effectively.

Understanding the materials used in HVAC coils is critical, and the reason copper and aluminum are the materials of choice for most coils is clear. Alternative tube materials such as aluminum, 304/316 stainless steel, and 90/10 cupro-nickel can be used, but none match the efficiency and cost effectiveness of the copper-aluminum combination.

At Capital Coil & Air, we are dedicated to assisting you with all your coil selection needs and look forward to collaborating on your next project.

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Guidelines For Air Velocities

The height, length and resulting air velocities greatly figure in everything in determining the size and performance of a coil. Step # 1 in determining the size and performance of a coil is dependent upon understanding face & air velocities of air across the coil. Whether you use CCA’s coil selection program to help size the coil, or you are replacing an existing coil; the height, length and resulting velocity determine everything.

Hot Water Booster Coils

air velocities

Every coil has a specific, optimum velocity, so you want to make sure you are within 30% (+ or -) of that number. For example, booster coils have an optimum velocity of 800 ft/minute. That means that you can drop your velocity to 600 ft/minute, or conversely, increase the velocity to 1,000 ft/minute. The duct velocities are almost always higher, which means that you will need to transition to a larger coil. Try to get to as close to 800 ft/minute as possible, while sizing your coil to make the transition as easy as possible. Everything with coils is a balancing act.

Hot Water & Steam Coils

Like booster coils, hot water and steam coils should also have face velocities at approximately 800 ft./minute. Both steam & hot water coils have only sensible heating, which is why their face velocities can be the same. Face velocities ultimately control the coil’s cost, so 800 ft./minute really is a heating coil’s “sweet spot”.

If you are purchasing an air handler unit, oftentimes the heating coil is smaller than the cooling coil because the face velocities on heating coils can exceed those of cooling coils. Due to water carry-over, cooling coils cannot exceed 550 ft/minute, while heating coils only deal with sensible heat.

Chilled Water & DX Coils

Due to the limited face velocities of cooling coils, your choices are more limited. With cooling coils, your face velocity must be somewhere between 500 ft./minute-550 ft./minute. Remember that when dealing with cooling coils, you are dealing with both sensible and latent cooling, so the coil is wet. When you exceed 550 ft./minute, water carry-over occurs past the drain pans.

If you are purchasing an air handler unit, you probably will not have worry about the coil’s face velocity as most coils come pre-sized at the acceptable face velocities. Fan coils also come pre-sized with the correct CFM’s. However, if you are replacing an existing cooling coil, the face velocity must remain at or below 550 ft/minute!!

 Air Stratification Across The Coil

Air does not travel equally across the face of a coil. If you were to divide a coil into (9) equal sections, like a tic-tac-toe board, you would see a high percentage of air travelling through the center square, rather than the corner squares. In a perfect air flow scheme, 11% of the air would travel through each of the 9 squares, but that is not what happens. Because more air travels through the center of the coil, you want to avoid putting a fan too near the coil. Due to central air flows, most systems are draw-thru, rather than blow-thru. This is also why you want to avoid installing your coil near any 90 degree angles/turns in the ductwork. Avoid any situations that contribute more than the “natural” air stratification to help ensure your coil is at maximum efficiency.

In some situations involving cooling coils, you will have water carry-over even when the coil is sized correctly. How can this happen? Think about the tic-tac-toe board again. Air velocities are exceeding 700 ft./minute in the coil’s center, while the corners are around 300 ft./minute. This cannot and will not work.

Coils do not have any moving parts. They simply react to the air across the outside of the coil and whatever is running through the inside of the coil. Coils are 100% a function of your entire system, as well as the installation in general.

Capital Coil & Air is here to help with any coil selections that will help avoid costly missteps that lead to wasted time and money. Call us on your next project, we greatly look forward to working with you!

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Why Cooling Coils Need to Be Replaced

In theory, properly engineered and maintained cooling coils should deliver 20+ years of service life. In practice, most coils are replaced prematurely. The root causes are typically operational neglect, environmental exposure, improper application, or design limitations. Below are the three primary drivers of early replacement, along with technical context.

1. Increased Air Resistance from Coil Plugging

Cooling Coils

Failure Mechanism:

Airborne contaminants (dust, pollen, fibers, grease aerosols) penetrate beyond the fin surface and embed deep within the coil core. Once lodged between fins and tubes, they cannot be fully removed by routine air-side cleaning.

Primary Causes:

  • Poor filtration

  • Irregular filter replacement

  • Lack of annual coil cleaning

  • High-particulate environments

Performance Impact:

  • Increased air-side static pressure

  • Reduced airflow (CFM)

  • Decreased heat transfer 

  • Reduced system capacity and efficiency

Plugged cooling coils often force the fan to operate outside design conditions, increasing energy consumption while lowering cooling output.

2. Freeze Damage

https://www.resideo.com/us/en/-/media/Resideo/Corporate/Media%20Images/Featured%20Articles/120121/cracked-pipe_850.jpg?h=567&hash=607EE03C7CC57A4AC0E0DCCC6025A398&rv=9d8b4e00150d48e49dbc73a3291c6451&w=850
 

Failure Mechanism:

Water trapped in coil tubes expands during freezing, generating internal pressures sufficient to rupture copper tubes.

Why It Happens (Even When Dormant in Winter):

  • Circuiting designs that prevent full drainage

  • Drain connections positioned above low tubes

  • Lack of glycol protection

    broken return bends

  • Inadequate winterization procedures

Consequences:

  • Multiple hidden leaks

  • Thinned tube walls due to pressure expansion

  • Progressive failures after initial repair

  • High risk of recurring leaks

Once a coil experiences extensive freeze damage, repair becomes unreliable. The metallurgical integrity of the tubes is compromised, making replacement the only durable solution.

3. Corrosion

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/ea3647_d85a052e6f8a4b5ab1c1d0555c623a28~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_1000%2Ch_750%2Cal_c%2Cq_85%2Cusm_0.66_1.00_0.01/ea3647_d85a052e6f8a4b5ab1c1d0555c623a28~mv2.jpg
Corrosion occurs on both the air side and the fluid side, often simultaneously.

Air-Side Corrosion

  • Salt-laden atmospheres (coastal or industrial)

  • Hydrogen sulfides (e.g., wastewater treatment facilities)

  • Chemical exposure in manufacturing environments

Visual Indicator:

A white ring around the tube-to-fin interface. This indicates loss of mechanical bond and reduced thermal conductivity between tube and fin.

Effects:

  • Reduced heat transfer

  • Loss of tube/fin contact

  • Core blockage from corrosion byproducts

  • Elevated air pressure drop

Water/Refrigerant-Side Corrosion

  • Raw, untreated water

  • High mineral content

  • Improper water chemistry control

Internal corrosion weakens tube walls and leads to pinhole leaks, particularly in copper tubing exposed to aggressive water conditions.

 

Key Takeaway

Cooling coil replacement is common—but preventable. Most failures are not random; they are the result of design limitations, environmental exposure, or maintenance gaps. Replacing a coil without diagnosing the root cause often guarantees another premature failure.

If longevity, efficiency, and reliability matter, the solution isn’t just replacement—it’s engineered improvement.

 

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Looking For A Trane Replacement Coil

If you need Trane replacement coil within a Trane system, but aren’t sure about the dimensions or decoding the model #, send this to Capital Coil & Air for pricing. On most Trane AHU’s, the AHU model #, as well as the coil or “part #”, is listed as “Service Model No Coil”. If you see this, send it over, and the sales team at Capital Coil will handle the rest. Great pricing with the ability to be built as fast as is needed!Trane replacement coil

Chilled Water Coils – Circuiting Made Easy

Chilled Water Coil

Circuiting chilled water coils is one of life’s great challenges in the coil business. You’re bound to run across folks with years of experience in the industry that can not effectively explain this concept. While not the most exciting of subjects, the necessity of circuiting chilled water coils can not be overstated. Capital Coil & Air has attempted to simplify the idea of circuiting as much as possible.

For starters, circuiting chilled water coils is ultimately up to the performance of those coils. Circuiting is really a balancing act of tube velocity and pressure drop. In other words, think of a coil as a matrix. Each coil has a specific number of rows, and a specific number of tubes within each row. For example, a chilled water coil might be 36 inch fin height and 8 rows deep. The coil has 24 tubes in each row, and multiplied by 8 rows, there is a total of 192 tubes within the coil. While you can try to feed any number of tubes, there are only a few combinations that will work.

    • Feeding 1 tube – you will be making 192 passes through the coil, which will essentially require a pump the size of your car to make that process work.
    • Feeding 2 tubes – equates to 96 passes, and your pressure drop will still be enormous.
    • Feeding 3 tubes – 64 passes, which is still too many.
    • Feeding 4 tubes – See above.
    • Feeding 5 tubes – Impossible as 5 does not divide evenly into 192 (passes).
    • Feeding 6 tubes – Still constitutes far too many passes, which again leads to additional pressure drop.
    • Feeding 7 tubes – Same rule for feeding 5 tubes.
    • Feeding 8 tubes –  Same rule for feeding 6 tubes.
    • Feeding 24 tubes – This feed consists of 8 passes, which is in the ballpark, and with a pressure drop you can live with.
    • Feeding 32 tubes – 32 tubes will see 6 passes. You might see a slight decrease in performance, but it’s off-set by a continuously better pressure drop.
    • Feeding 48 tubes – The magic combination, as 4 passes typically elicits the best performance and pressure drop simultaneously.

 

Rule #1: The number of tubes that you feed must divide evenly into the number of tubes in the chilled water coil.

Rule #2: The chilled water coil must give you an even number of passes so that the connections end up on the same end.

Rule #3: Based on the number of passes, you must be able to live with the resulting pressure drop. Acceptable tube velocity with water is between 2 and 6 ft. per second.

You’re bound to run into different terminologies depending on the manufacturer. More times than not, the different verbiage confuses more than it clarifies. However, understanding the basic tenets of chilled water coil circuiting will remove much of the perceived difficulty.  

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What Is Meant By A “Bank” Of Chilled Water Coils

For those that work with HVAC installations on a regular basis, you have run across the problem of needing to install new chilled water coils in very tight, confined areas. The coil is too big to fit in the Chilled Water Coilselevator, and/or the HVAC room is so small that you are likely to damage the coil simply by moving it. As a solution to this challenge, chilled water coils are often installed in “banks” of coils. You are most likely to see this configuration in Air Handler Units, as well as “built-up” systems. Due to face velocity limitations across the coil, you will need larger coils in order to meet your required face area. With this in mind, there are a few specific reasons why you want to avoid having a single, large coil in one of your units.  Starting with the obvious: larger coils are much more difficult to transfer and install. This is especially true for older buildings, where the rooms were essentially built around the HVAC system.

As you’ve probably experienced, some of these areas can barely fit a single person, so installation – if even possible – is a logistical nightmare. Also, the larger the coil, the easier it is to damage during transport to the jobsite. To avoid these issues, simply break down the single, larger coil into smaller coils. When piped together, those smaller coils are stacked into “banks” of coils in the system. If installed correctly, this “bank” should have the same performance as the larger, single coil.

Casing

There are many different casing options available, but “stackable” flanges are required for heavy chilled water coils that are “banked”. The flanges are often inverted inward and down to give added strength to the casing, which is needed due to the fact that another coil of equal weight will be stacked on top of it. When ordering coils in a “bank” configuration, be sure to let the manufacturer know that they will be “stacked”.

Many engineers also use stainless steel casings on chilled water coils. While more expensive than traditional galvanized steel, stainless steel protects against excessively wet coils and/or corrosive elements in the airstream. Keep in mind that the majority of coils fail because of old age and its casing, as opposed to failure with the coil’s core. With that in mind, doesn’t it make sense to select heavy-duty stainless steel casings that are more durable and meant for stackable installations?

Drain Pans & Water Carryover

Water Coils

All chilled water coils must be sized so that the face velocity across the coil does not exceed 550 ft/minute. Water on the outside of the coil is carried away from the coil’s leaving air side in an arc, while water in the highest point of the coil is carried further down the unit or ductwork. “Stackable” coils often require intermediate drain pans under each coil to catch the excess water carryover. Each coil in a bank requires its own drain pan, as a single, large pan under the bottom coil is not enough.

Circuiting/GPM

If all of the coils in a “bank” are of equal size and handling the same CFM, then the GPM of each coil will also be the same.

Always feed the bottom connection on the supply header on the leaving air side of the coil. This ensures counter air and water flow. This also prevents the coil from short circuiting because the header fills first and circuits all of the tubes equally.

Designing Banks Of Coils

Almost all coil “banks” perform more efficiently if you design something more square in shape, as opposed to long and/or high. In a “bank” of coils, you may find that one coil has points of 300 ft/minute, with other points at 800 ft/minute. Scenarios such as this will cause water-carryover! You generally want to be as close to 550 ft/minute as possible in order to allow equal airflow distribution across the face area of the coil.

Anytime you are designing and/or building coils, work closely with the manufacturer as an added resource to ensure that you are getting the ideal solution for your HVAC system. Capital Coil & Air works on similar jobs such as these daily, and we welcome the opportunity to work with you in whatever capacity is needed.

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1. When measuring HVAC coils, performance has very little to do with accurately measuring for replacement coils. Fitting the coil in the existing space with the least amount of labor has everything to do with measuring a coil.  If you duplicate the coil in almost every respect, the performance will match and take care of itself.  New is always more efficient than old.

2.  If you’re ever in doubt about a dimension, smaller is always better than bigger. You can always “safe off” around any coil as long as you can fit it in the space.  If a coil is too big, it makes a really ugly coffee table in your shop.  Too big is the enemy of measuring coils.

Chilled Water Coil

3.  The fin height and fin length are not the determining factors in measuring a coil. The overall casing dimensions are the most important, and you work backwards to determine fin dimensions.

4.  The depth of any coil is the total casing depth in the direction of airflow. The height is the number of tubes high in any row.  Depth is a function of rows deep and height is a function of tubes in a row.

5.  Overall length (OAL) is not the fin length and it’s not the casing length. It is the length from the return bends to include the headers that are inside the unit.  Again, it is necessary to work backwards to get the other dimensions once you know this critical dimension.

6.  Circuiting is the number of tubes connected to the supply header. Generally, you just want to count the number of tubes connected to the header and that will tell you whether it’s full, half, or even a double circuit.  It does not matter how the return bends are configured.  Your goal is to count the number of supply tubes and all performance is based on that.

7.  Fins are measured in fins per inch. Hold a tape measure up to the coils and count the number of fins in one inch.  If you can’t get in to take the measurement, a safe rule of thumb is 10-12 fins/inch.  That will work on almost every coil.  The exception to that rule is a condenser coil.  14-16 fins/inch on a condenser coil is usually pretty safe.

8.  Connection locations are difficult only if you are using the existing piping in the system (which are welded). Copper piping is brazed and can be changed easily.  If a system is old and the piping is being replaced as well as the coil, the connection location is not a major deal.  It’s very easy to match up!

9.  With replacement coils, the concept of “left hand vs. right hand” doesn’t actually exist. Connections are “top left-bottom right” or vice versa.  Ideally, all coils should be counter-flow which means that the water and air flow in opposite directions.  The air hits row one first and the water is piped into row eight first.  However, there are lots of installations that are piped backwards, and they work just fine.  Just match them up, and the coil’s performance will be equal to the old coil.

10.  Connections are not measured from the top of the header! They are measured from the top of the casing to the centerline of the connection.  Or the bottom of the casing to the centerline.  You need a point of reference, and the header height can be anything just as long as it doesn’t stick above or below the casing height.

 

All of the above “suggestions” or “secrets” are in no particular order.  They are just things that you should know to ensure that you are selecting the correct replacement coil. While most seem like common sense, your best bet is to talk with the sales team at Capital Coil & Air, who can walk your through the entire process and help you to fill out coil drawings when trying to measure the dimensions.

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OEM Replacement Coils: Repair or Replace

When considering OEM replacement coils, there are multiple reasons why coils can fail prematurely. Sometimes, OEM Coils simply freeze and can never be repaired. Other times, the coil was selected incorrectly, which in turn, made the coil significantly underperform. Many times, there is substantial corrosion or something else in the system that causes the coil to fail. However, most coils, when selected correctly, and in systems that are properly maintained, can last anywhere from 10-30 years!  10-30 years is also a pretty wide range, and there are many variables in how long you can expect a coil to perform. Factors, such as ongoing maintenance, air quality, and water/steam quality all have an effect on a coil’s lifespan.

OEM Replacement Coils

Reasons Why Coils Fail Of Old Age

  • While the coil’s tubes are considered the primary surface, 70% of all coil performance is performed by the finned area on a coil, which is known as the secondary surface. The fin/tube bond is easily the most important manufacturing feature in any coil. Without the bond between the tubes and fins, the coil could never properly function. Like all things however, over time the fin/tube bond becomes less efficient with constant expansion and contraction. While the construction of the coil, as well as the fin collars, does not allow the fins on the coil to move, that fin/tube bond naturally weakens a coil’s life over time after installation. Because of this, it is not a stretch to say that a coil is easily 30% less efficient after (20) years.
  • Cleaning coils often pushes dirt to the center of the coil, and this occurs even more so on wet cooling coils. Just remember that coils can become great air filters if not properly maintained. The BTU output of any coil is in direct proportion to the amount of air going through the coil. If you decrease the CFM by 20%, you are also decrease the BTU’s by 20%!
  • Cleaning agents often corrode aluminum fins. Since every square inch of fin surface matters in performance, corrosion of the fin surface is always detrimental to the coil’s performance.
  • Many times, there are coil leaks simply because of old age. No coils are immune to erosion. You might find the brazing in the tubes, as well as the brazing in the header/tube connections failing over time. Steam can be both erosive and corrosive under higher pressures. Water travels through the coil at 2 – 5 ft/second, so erosion is an enormous part of coil failure, regardless of how well-maintained. Erosion is always there, whether you realize it or not.
  • Water/steam treatment and the corrosive effects of bad steam/water can all be causes of coil failure…which then necessitates the need for a reliable manufacturer for OEM replacement coils.

So What Is The Solution?

Some coils can last 5 years, and some coils can last 30 years. As you have read, there are numerous factors that contribute to a coil’s life. In the end, there will most likely have been multiple attempts to repair that coil to make it last as long as possible. The depressing news is that most of these “Band-Aid” attempts do not work well. The most likely outcome is that you are buying a new coil anyway, so why waste the time and money on a temporary solution?

Coil failure is a “pressure event”, which is a fancy way of saying that a coil is leaking. We’ve listed some of the most common repair methods that you are likely to come across:

  • Drop leaking tubes from the circuit: Keep in mind however that every dropped tube reduces the coil’s performance by triple the surface area of the tube that is dropped. Again, while ok in the short-term, this is simply another “Band-Aid” fix. Over time, your energy costs will rise exponentially, and you will probably end up buying a new coil anyway.
  • Braze over the existing braze: As mentioned above, erosion has caused the original braze to fail, so all that you are really doing is pushing the pressure to another braze, which will then begin to fail as well.
  • High Pressure Cleaning: This method bends the fins, further restricts the airflow, and pushes dirt more to the center of the coil, which can never be adequately cleaned.

The real reason why coils need to be replaced rather than repaired is due to energy costs. If your coil is not operating near desired levels, you’ll need to increase the energy to make it work at its peak performance. Energy increases might be slight at first, but they are guaranteed to continue to rise over time. For example:

  • Somebody adjusts the fan drive for higher speeds, higher CFM’s and higher BTU’s.
  • Someone adjusts the boiler; the water and steam temperatures are higher.
  • Someone adjusts the chiller (1) degree higher for colder water to the chilled water coil.

Whichever method is used, performance begins to suffer and adjustments to the system occur. These adjustments cost energy efficiency and ultimately, money!

If you have ever experienced repairing a coil, then you know it is labor intensive and typically will not work as a permanent solution. With very few exceptions, repairs should be seen as nothing more than temporary until you’re able to replace that coil!

Capital Coil & Air has seen every “repair” method used, as well its inevitable outcome, so instead of putting yourself through that, call Capital Coil and allow us to be your coil replacement experts.

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