Why are HVAC Coils Copper Tube and Aluminum Fin

Every Chilled Water Coil selection is about balance. Your coil selection balances the rows/fins versus the cost of the coil pressure drops/performance. Trying to cut corners on your initial selection may save you money upfront, but you will inevitably pay it back down the line through added energy costs. This is a truism for every manufactured coil.

Fins cost less money than rows/tubes. A good cost-cutting tool when selecting a coil is to choose 14 fins/inch. This will turn your (8) row coil into a (6) row coil, which will dramatically lower your costs. If you choose to go this route, one thing to keep in mind is that 14 fins/inch will be semi-inconvenient to any maintenance crew tasked with cleaning the coil. Don’t expect a Christmas card from them that year.
That raises the question of whether or not you can even clean a deep (6) or (8) row coil? In short, you can, but it is not easy. Chilled water coils are especially difficult to clean because they are almost always wet. Due to this fact, they typically attract dirt and additional particles that other coils do not. Generally, when cleaning a coil, most of the dirt get pushed to the middle, and for that reason, 14 fins/inch may not be the best idea after all.
Did you know that fins do approximately 70% of the heat transfer in a chilled water coil, while the tubes are only responsible for the remaining 30%? This is precisely why the fin/tube bond is so important. Without a perfectly crafted fin/tube bond, coils become inefficient very quickly. You pay for that inefficiency through increased energy costs.
How long does a coil last? At what age can I expect my coil to fail? Unfortunately, there is no single answer to either question. Everything is dependent on a combination of maintenance, duty, and numerous other factors. If your initial selection was correctly chosen, and proper maintenance was kept, 15-20 years is a good timeframe.
You may have a situation where your coil is 20 years old, and everything appears to be operating in good condition. There are no leaks and all looks ok. However, over that length of time, what you don’t see is that the fins have thinned and are no longer bonded to the tubes, and the coil is dirty in places that you cannot see. Again, while the coil may look to be running in top form, it’s probably only running at 60% capacity. Most likely, the tubes have also thinned over time, so when the next deep freeze occurs, you can guess the likely outcome.
You really need to replace the coil, but have been told to make do with the current coil? To make up for the lack of efficiency, you might try to “jury-rig” your system. One method is to change the drive on the fans to deliver more CFM. This increases the air pressure drop, which in turn increases motor brake horsepower. Another option to help increase the coil’s efficiency is to lower the temperature of the chilled water from the chiller. We tend to mess with the system and apply temporary Band-Aids, when replacing the coil is the only guaranteed long-term solution.
If you want to spend money wisely on a chilled water coil, simply make the tubes thicker. The tube thickness for a 5/8” tube coil is .020” thick, so increase the tube thickness to .025”. The same applies for a ½” tube coil, with a tube thickness of .016”. Increase it to .020”. By doing this, you get the added bonus of making your return bends thicker, which also helps to extend the life of the coil.
Not quite sure about circuiting on a chilled water coil? You are going to have a hard time making an accurate selection unless you understand how to circuit a coil. Circuiting is really nothing more than selecting the number of tubes that you want to feed, and how many passes the water makes through the coil – depending on your GPM. Circuiting is one of the most important factors in ensuring that your coil is running at peak-performance.
Curious about the balance between cost, size, materials, and maintenance? Every chilled water coil needs to be maintained for its entire life-span. If you’ve made your selection, and something seems off about the coils, chances are mistakes were made during the selection process. Some indicators include the coil being too big for the space allowed, or incurring out of control energy costs. What is the point of saving $500 on a chilled water coil if you have to spend $5,000 in maintenance over its life-span?

As coil replacement experts, we run into this issue every day. Our goal is to work with you to ensure your selections are correct the first time. The person in charge of budgets will be grateful to you over time. Capital Coil & Air welcomes the opportunity to work with you on your next coil project! We want to be your coil replacement specialists.

Chilled Water Coil Circuiting Made Easy

Chilled Water Coils & Moisture Carryover

Top 10 Things You Need to Know About Chilled Water Coils

10 Things To Know About Chilled Water Coils

1. Hot or chilled water coils are still water coils. There is really no difference between hot water coils and a chilled water coils in construction. Hot water coils are usually 1 or 2 rows and chilled water coils are usually 3 to 12 rows deep.

2. The vast majority of chilled water coils are constructed from either 1/2″ OD tubes or 5/8″ OD tubes. A lot of that depends on the tooling of the original equipment manufacturer and what is more economical. Either size can be used and substituted for each other, which makes replacing your coil that much easier.

3. 1/2″ Tubes are on 1.25″ center to center distance. 5/8″ tubes are on 1.5″ center to center distance. For example, if a chilled water coil has a 30″ fin height, there will be (24) 1/2″ tubes per row or (20) 5/8″ tubes per row. The tube area of the coil is remarkably the same. They are almost interchangeable.

4. The quality of the coil often times is directly tied to the tube thickness. Many installations have water not treated properly or tube velocities that are too high. There are few perfect installations in real life. Increasing the tube wall thickness on a chilled water coil is a great way to ensure longer life.

5. Fins make great filters! Of course, they are not designed to be filters, but it happens. You can make any coil cheaper by making them 14 fins/inch with less rows rather than 8 or 10 fins/inch. Just remember that deep coils are very difficult to clean. Cheap is not the way to go most of the time!

6. Fins are designed for maximum heat transfer. They are much more complicated in design than they appear to be when looking at the chilled water coil. They are rippled on the edge to break up the air. They are corrugated throughout the depth of the fin. The tubes are staggered from row to row and the fin collars are extended. All of this to maximize heat transfer. Unfortunately, the byproduct of this is the fins can end up being great filters. Be careful in the design of any chilled water coil.

7. Fins are aluminum for a reason! They give you great heat transfer at an economical cost. You need a compelling reason to switch to copper fins as copper is very expensive, and you’re likely to double (or maybe triple) the cost of the coil. Coatings are popular for this very reason.

8. Many chilled water coils are built with 304 stainless steel casings. The casings are stronger, they last longer, they are stackable, and it’s fairly inexpensive. After all, what is the point of building the best coil possible and have the casing disintegrate over time around the coil? Sometimes, it’s money well spent!

9. Circuiting the coil is the tricky part of any coil. Circuiting is nothing more than the number of tubes that you want to feed from a header. There are two rules. You must keep the water velocity over 1 foot/second and below 6 feet/second. 3-4 feet/second is optimum. The second is the number of tubes that you feed must divide evenly into the number of tubes in the coil.

10. Replacing your chilled water coil is easy. Rarely do you have to worry about the performance. When you replace a 20 year old coil, it is dirty and the fin/tube bond is not good. The coil is probably operating at 1/2 of its capacity at best. When you put a new coil on the job, your performance will automatically be terrific. Your main concern is now making the sure the coil physically fits in the space allowed. And always have this in the back of your mind: Smaller is always better than too large. Smaller you can always work with, whereas too large makes for a very ugly and expensive coffee table.

There you have it – everything you need to know about chilled water coils. Interested in learning more, please reach out to Capital Coil & Air! We look forward to the opportunity to be your coil replacement specialists!

DX & Chilled Water Cabinet Coils

Coils and Counter-flow: 5 Common Questions

Top 5 Reasons HVAC Coils Prematurely Fail

Guidelines For Air Velocities

The height, length and resulting air velocities greatly figure in everything in determining the size and performance of a coil. Step # 1 in determining the size and performance of a coil is dependent upon understanding face & air velocities of air across the coil. Whether you use CCA’s coil selection program to help size the coil, or you are replacing an existing coil; the height, length and resulting velocity determine everything.

Hot Water Booster Coils

Every coil has a specific, optimum velocity, so you want to make sure you are within 30% (+ or -) of that number. For example, booster coils have an optimum velocity of 800 ft/minute. That means that you can drop your velocity to 600 ft/minute, or conversely, increase the velocity to 1,000 ft/minute. The duct velocities are almost always higher, which means that you will need to transition to a larger coil. Try to get to as close to 800 ft/minute as possible, while sizing your coil to make the transition as easy as possible. Everything with coils is a balancing act.

Hot Water & Steam Coils

Like booster coils, hot water and steam coils should also have face velocities at approximately 800 ft./minute. Both steam & hot water coils have only sensible heating, which is why their face velocities can be the same. Face velocities ultimately control the coil’s cost, so 800 ft./minute really is a heating coil’s “sweet spot”.

If you are purchasing an air handler unit, oftentimes the heating coil is smaller than the cooling coil because the face velocities on heating coils can exceed those of cooling coils. Due to water carry-over, cooling coils cannot exceed 550 ft/minute, while heating coils only deal with sensible heat.

Chilled Water & DX Coils

Due to the limited face velocities of cooling coils, your choices are more limited. With cooling coils, your face velocity must be somewhere between 500 ft./minute-550 ft./minute. Remember that when dealing with cooling coils, you are dealing with both sensible and latent cooling, so the coil is wet. When you exceed 550 ft./minute, water carry-over occurs past the drain pans.

If you are purchasing an air handler unit, you probably will not have worry about the coil’s face velocity as most coils come pre-sized at the acceptable face velocities. Fan coils also come pre-sized with the correct CFM’s. However, if you are replacing an existing cooling coil, the face velocity must remain at or below 550 ft/minute!!

Air Stratification Across The Coil

Air does not travel equally across the face of a coil. If you were to divide a coil into (9) equal sections, like a tic-tac-toe board, you would see a high percentage of air travelling through the center square, rather than the corner squares. In a perfect air flow scheme, 11% of the air would travel through each of the 9 squares, but that is not what happens. Because more air travels through the center of the coil, you want to avoid putting a fan too near the coil. Due to central air flows, most systems are draw-thru, rather than blow-thru. This is also why you want to avoid installing your coil near any 90 degree angles/turns in the ductwork. Avoid any situations that contribute more than the “natural” air stratification to help ensure your coil is at maximum efficiency.

In some situations involving cooling coils, you will have water carry-over even when the coil is sized correctly. How can this happen? Think about the tic-tac-toe board again. Air velocities are exceeding 700 ft./minute in the coil’s center, while the corners are around 300 ft./minute. This cannot and will not work.

Coils do not have any moving parts. They simply react to the air across the outside of the coil and whatever is running through the inside of the coil. Coils are 100% a function of your entire system, as well as the installation in general.

Capital Coil & Air is here to help with any coil selections that will help avoid costly missteps that lead to wasted time and money. Call us on your next project, we greatly look forward to working with you!

Chilled Water, DX (Expansion) Coils & Moisture Carryover

Tips on Hand Designation & Counter-flow

Coils and Counter-flow: 5 Common Questions

Now Offering R-454B Refrigerant for All DX Coils

In keeping with most of the OEM’s in 2025, Capital Coil is helping everyone transition from R-410A over to R-454B refrigerant in their DX Coils. Whether you are designing a new system, or retrofitting an existing one with a condensing system, Capital Coil can help in making the switch in refrigerants.

If you are not yet aware, the EPA is working hand in hand with many of the major OEM’s to help reduce commercial HVAC’s carbon footprint. One of the major ways in which HVAC manufacturers are helping and complying with the new industry standards is the gradual change in refrigerants from R-410A to R-454B. Beginning in January, 2025, no new system is allowed to be built or imported using the older refrigerants. Without going into a deep dive on the differences, R-454B offers a lower GWP (global warming potential) alternative to R-410A. Hence the mandate to change to that refrigerant type.

However, Capital Coil will still offer R-22 and R-410A for DX Coils in older systems that might not be compatible with R-454B. In other words, Capital Coil has been, and will remain, the most reliable source for all commercial and OEM replacement coils. Our #1 job is to make to your job easier, so please reach out. You will be glad you did.

What Does “Splitting” A DX (Evaporator) Coil Mean?

Condenser Coils Failing? Here’s probably why….

OEM Replacement Coils: Repair or Replace

Chilled Water Coils – Circuiting Made Easy

Circuiting chilled water coils is one of life’s great challenges in the coil business. You’re bound to run across folks with years of experience in the industry that can not effectively explain this concept. While not the most exciting of subjects, the necessity of circuiting chilled water coils can not be overstated. Capital Coil & Air has attempted to simplify the idea of circuiting as much as possible.

For starters, circuiting chilled water coils is ultimately up to the performance of those coils. Circuiting is really a balancing act of tube velocity and pressure drop. In other words, think of a coil as a matrix. Each coil has a specific number of rows, and a specific number of tubes within each row. For example, a chilled water coil might be 36 inch fin height and 8 rows deep. The coil has 24 tubes in each row, and multiplied by 8 rows, there is a total of 192 tubes within the coil. While you can try to feed any number of tubes, there are only a few combinations that will work.

- Feeding 1 tube – you will be making 192 passes through the coil, which will essentially require a pump the size of your car to make that process work.

- Feeding 2 tubes – equates to 96 passes, and your pressure drop will still be enormous.

- Feeding 3 tubes – 64 passes, which is still too many.

- Feeding 4 tubes – See above.

- Feeding 5 tubes – Impossible as 5 does not divide evenly into 192 (passes).

- Feeding 6 tubes – Still constitutes far too many passes, which again leads to additional pressure drop.

- Feeding 7 tubes – Same rule for feeding 5 tubes.

- Feeding 8 tubes – Same rule for feeding 6 tubes.

- Feeding 24 tubes – This feed consists of 8 passes, which is in the ballpark, and with a pressure drop you can live with.

- Feeding 32 tubes – 32 tubes will see 6 passes. You might see a slight decrease in performance, but it’s off-set by a continuously better pressure drop.
- Feeding 48 tubes – The magic combination, as 4 passes typically elicits the best performance and pressure drop simultaneously.

Rule #1: The number of tubes that you feed must divide evenly into the number of tubes in the chilled water coil.

Rule #2: The chilled water coil must give you an even number of passes so that the connections end up on the same end.

Rule #3: Based on the number of passes, you must be able to live with the resulting pressure drop. Acceptable tube velocity with water is between 2 and 6 ft. per second.

You’re bound to run into different terminologies depending on the manufacturer. More times than not, the different verbiage confuses more than it clarifies. However, understanding the basic tenets of chilled water coil circuiting will remove much of the perceived difficulty.

Coils and Counter-flow: 5 Common Questions

Chilled Water Coils & Moisture Carryover

Top 10 Things You Need to Know About Chilled Water Coils

What Does “Splitting” DX (Evaporator) Coils Mean

***Now Offering R-454B Refrigerant for All DX Coils

“Splitting” DX (Evaporator) coils is one of the toughest concepts to understand in the coil business. “Splitting” the coil simply means that (2) or more compressors can operate off of the same coil. One obvious advantage, or reason that you might “split” DX (Evaporator) coils is that you can shut down (1) of the compressors when the cooling load does not require it. This in turn saves energy, which saves $ when the cooling load is not operating at maximum design conditions. For example, let’s use a coil that is designed to give you (40) tons, but the coil is split so that (2) 20-ton compressors are feeding the same coil. If you only require ½ of the maximum load on any given day, you can shut down (1) compressor completely and operate the other one at 100%. This is a money-saving feature that you need to be aware of if you deal with DX coils on a regular basis. This requires special circuiting arrangements, and this is where the confusion starts with most folks. There are three primary ways to deal with this:

FACE SPLIT

Splitting the coil is nothing more than putting (2) completely separate fin/tube packs (coils) into one common casing. When you hear the term “face-splitting” a coil, you are drawing a horizontal line from left to right across the face of the coil and dividing the coil into a top and bottom half. It is like having two separate coils in one casing in that each half is circuited by itself. You hook up (1) compressor for the top half, and (1) compressor for the bottom.

In practice, this configuration is no longer used with much frequency because this arrangement leads to air being directed across the entire face of the coil. This disadvantage is especially apparent when only one half of the coil is in use because you’ll need a complicated damper/duct system to ensure that air is only directed to that portion of the coil in operation.

Row Split

“Row splitting” a coil is dividing the coil by drawing a line vertically and putting some portion of the total rows in (1) circuit, while putting the remaining rows in the other circuit. With this configuration, the air passes across the entire face of the coil, and will always pass across the rows that are in operation.

Please be aware that this configuration also comes with certain issues in that this kind of split makes it very hard to achieve a true 50/50 split. Let’s use an (8) row coil as an example. You would like to “row split” this coil with (4) rows/circuit, which would appear to be a perfect 50/50 split. The problem here is that the first (4) rows, located closest to the entering air, pick up a much higher portion of the load than the last (4) rows. In actuality, this coil’s split is closer to 66% / 34%, which will not match the 50/50 compressors. Another option is try to split the coil between (3) & (5) rows. While not 50/50 either, this configuration is closer. However, a new challenge arises because you have now created a coil that is very difficult to build and correctly circuit. In short, you need almost perfect conditions along with a degree of luck to achieve a true 50/50 split using this method.

Intertwined Circuiting

The most common to split coils today is to “intertwine” the circuiting. This means that every alternate tube in the coil is included in (1) circuit, while the other tubes are included in the (2^nd) circuit. For example, tubes 1, 3,5,7,9, etc. in the first row are combined with tubes 2, 4, 6,8,10, etc. in the second row. The same tubes in succeeding rows form (1) circuit. You are essentially including every alternate tube in the entire coil into (1) circuit, which (1) compressor will operate. All of the remaining tubes not included in the first circuit will now encompass the second circuit.

The advantage of this configuration is that the air passes across the entire face of the coil, and, if one of the compressors is on, there are always tubes in operation. Every split is now exactly 50/50 because it cannot be any other way. Most DX coils are now configured in this manner due to these advantages.

Capital Coil has been, and will remain, the most reliable source for all commercial and OEM replacement coils. Our #1 job is to make to your job easier, so please reach out. You will be glad you did.

CHILLED WATER, DX (EXPANSION) COILS & MOISTURE CARRYOVER

Now Offering R-454B Refrigerant for All DX Coils

DX & Chilled Water Cabinet Coils

Cooling Coils & Moisture Carryover

Moisture carryover is present on cooling coils where dehumidification happens. Many people do not think it’s a problem…until you have moisture running down ductwork or spewing all over the inside of an air handler. If you’ve ever experienced that then you probably know all of these rules regarding moisture carryover.

Capital Coil does not typically build chilled water or DX (Evaporator) Coils over 50” in height. For example, with applications that call for a 96” high coil, we will build (2) 48” high coils and stack them with an intermediate drain pain. We do this for a couple reasons: first, the shipping & handling is far easier and there’s less chance for damage before the coil even gets to the job-site. Second, the drain pan in the bottom of the unit for a 96” high coil would be enormous, and it would be practically “raining” off the top of a coil 96” high.

Air velocity for cooling coils should never be higher than 550 feet/min!!! Anything higher and you are asking for complications. You’d be surprised how many manufacturers do not know that and/or won’t tell you that to keep you out of trouble.

Entering air temperatures of 80/67 of return air in the Northeast carry far less moisture than an outside 95/78 entering air temperature in Florida. Outside air always has more moisture.

-Your location plays a part as well. The drain pans will absolutely have be sized differently. Florida’s will be much larger in size.

Fin design is irrelevant when it comes to moisture carryover. Whether you have copper corrugated fins, or aluminum flat fins, plate fins or even the old fashioned spiral fins, none of it has any effect on moisture carryover.

Lastly, be careful when installing a new chilled water or DX (Evaporator) Coils in a system. Many end users like to increase the airflow on older coils because those old coils can act like filters, the fins are covered in dirt/dust and you’re not getting the same airflow through the coil. This dirt on the coil also semi-prevents moisture carryover. When that brand new chilled water coil is installed, the airflow might be higher than that of 550 ft/minute, which of course will cause moisture carryover problems.

Please give us a call with any questions about your coil, your system or its design. Capital Coil is here to help you avoid situations like the one described in this post, and we would love for the chance to work with you!

10 Things You Need to Know About Chilled Water Coils

Top 10 Chilled Water Coil Facts

Chilled Water Coil Circuiting Made Easy

TOP 10 FAN COIL FAQ’S

1. A fan coil is among the easiest units to understand in the HVAC industry. Basically, there is a small forward curved fan, a coil, and sometimes a filter. They are all direct drive units. Click HERE to see Capital Coil’s full Fan Coil Product Lineup.

2. Fan coils run from 200 CFM to 2200 CFM, which is 0.5 ton through 5.5 tons. Anything larger than these sizes requires a belt drive unit…which is really a full fledged air handler.

3. The thing that differentiates fan coil units is where and how they are going to be installed. Is the unit going to be hidden above the ceiling or maybe in a closet? Or is it going to be exposed so that everyone can see it? Will it be ducted or will it just pull air from the space where it’s located? These are things that determine the configuration of the unit and which style of unit to choose. But, every unit has 3 things in common: fan, coil, and sometimes a filter.

4. Some units have (2) coils. One for heating and one for cooling. Obviously, there is a separate supply and return connection for each coil and these units are known as 4 pipe fan coils. Many units only use the same coil for both heating and cooling and these units are 2 pipe fan coils.

5. Units are either horizontal or vertical depending on the orientation and flow of the air. A typical fan coil in a hotel room is a vertical unit with a mixture of air coming from outside and the air recirculating in the room. The air enters at the bottom of the unit and is drawn upward through the fan. This makes the unit a vertical style. Many units are horizontal with the air entering at the back of the unit and traveling horizontally through the unit.

6. Almost all fan coils are 3 speed or infinite speed settings based on the controls. The high speed gives you more BTU’s, but more noise too. Because the unit is direct drive, when you dial down the speed, you also dial down the performance.

7. Coils in the units tend to be 3 or 4 row deep coils. 3 row is typically used the most, but if you need the extra performance, 4 row is the way to go. Performance is always governed by the cooling aspect.

8. Fan coils sometimes have short runs of duct work and there is static pressure on the unit. Static pressure reduces the amount of CFM and BTU’s that the fan coil can give you. This is true of both horizontal and vertical units. Most performances listed on charts that you will see are static free performances.

9. The control systems for fan coils are often more complicated and more expensive than the units themselves. There are balancing valves, isolation valves, unions, y-strainers, p/t plugs, air vents, ball valves, thermostats, condensate float switches, and disconnects. Capital Coil & Air can do this at the plant, but it is much cheaper and easier to do it at the installation.

10. Just describe your installation requirements to a sales engineer at Capital Coil & Air and they will guide you to the right design and configuration of the unit for you. It requires only a phone call or e-mail! We look forward to working with you!

Top 10 Chilled Water Coil Facts

Light-Duty Commercial Belt Drive Air Handlers

Top 10 Questions You SHOULD Be Asking Your Coil Supplier

Tips on Hand Designation & “Counter-flow”

Are your chilled water coils right hand or left hand? Are you looking into the face of the coil with the air hitting you in the back of the head? What exactly is counter-flow and why is it important? Are you completely confused by why right hand vs. left hand even exists? Most manufacturers probably do not know or understand the technical reasons themselves.

First, let’s figure out what coils even need a hand determination. Chilled Water Coils, Direct Expansion (Evaporator) Coils, and Condenser Coils are the only coils that need this figured on almost every job. Hot Water Coils, Booster Coils, and Steam Coils rarely need this determination! The reason for this is when the coils are only 1 or 2 rows deep, they can be flipped over. When a chilled water coil is 3+ rows deep, hand determination is much more important because it needs to be counter-flow. With most suppliers determining hand designation with the air hitting you in the back of the head….do you want the connections on the right or left?

You’ve probably heard the term “counter-flow” countless times, but here’s the simplest explanation. For peak performance, you want the air and the fluid traveling in opposite directions through the coil. Is it the end of the world if your coils are not counter-flow? The short answer is no, but you will lose approximately 5% of the output. So if your coils are piped incorrectly, don’t expect to get the full performance, but they will still be more effective than whatever you’re replacing. Steam and hot water coils are 1 or 2 rows deep, so again, counter-flow is pretty much irrelevant. However, it can make a difference with any chilled water or direct expansion coils (3-12) rows deep.

We also get asked many times “what is the proper way to pipe coils?” Put simply, steam coils should always be fed on the highest connection and the return on the lowest connection. Water coils should always be fed on the lowest connection and returned on the top connection to ensure that all of the tubes are are fed the same volume of fluid.

Hand designation and counter-flow are two pretty simple concepts when they are properly explained. When dealing with a HVAC coil manufacturer, partner up with one who will walk you through the engineering and explain it along the way. Capital Coil & Air has well over a decade of experience in handling pretty much any scenario that you may come across, so we want to be your coil resource for any and all projects. Please give us a try on your next job!

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